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post #451 of 549 Old 02-25-2018, 11:27 AM
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This past October I picked up a 75" 940E for the living room, moved the 65" ZT60 to the bedroom. The ZT60 has died I decided to replace it with the X850E last week, pricing was too good to pass up. Just couldn't bring myself to spend the additional bucks on the X900E for a bedroom TV. So far I'm happy with my purchase
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post #452 of 549 Old 02-25-2018, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antennahead View Post
This past October I picked up a 75" 940E for the living room, moved the 65" ZT60 to the bedroom. The ZT60 has died I decided to replace it with the X850E last week, pricing was too good to pass up. Just couldn't bring myself to spend the additional bucks on the X900E for a bedroom TV. So far I'm happy with my purchase
Hi Antennahead,

Sorry to hear about your ZT death. IMO the X850E is amazing middle tier TV or a high end middle tier TV.

I recommended this TV to my friend and he purchased it. I helped him set it up. It has a gorgeous picture and IMO is the best bang for the buck, dollar for dollar all round performer.

Enjoy.
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post #453 of 549 Old 02-26-2018, 04:11 AM
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Another satisfied new X850E owner chiming in. I grabbed mine last week at BB, couldn't pass on the price and size! Considering how far we sit from the screen (14'), the 75" size won out over the HDR difference from the 900/930 models I was at least considering. I think also, when word started spreading that even the 900 and 930's were not getting the DV update either, welp, the 850e seemed like the right choice for me all the more.

After calibration I love the picture, especially the color accuracy! The only minor issue I was having was some faint clouding visible in the lower left corner when watching 2:35 content...and even that was able to be removed after a quick google search turned up some handy explanations of just using a soft cloth and simply massaging it away (who knew it could be that easy lol...I swear I tried every setting in the picture adjust menu and couldn't remove it, then a few gentle swipes, pushing directly on the screen, gone, haha).
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post #454 of 549 Old 02-26-2018, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schils View Post
...The only minor issue I was having was some faint clouding visible in the lower left corner when watching 2:35 content...and even that was able to be removed after a quick google search turned up some handy explanations of just using a soft cloth and simply massaging it away (who knew it could be that easy lol...I swear I tried every setting in the picture adjust menu and couldn't remove it, then a few gentle swipes, pushing directly on the screen, gone, haha).
Can you share this info? I have what looks like severe backlight bleed and am thinking the clouding is something different, but I'll try anything. :/
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post #455 of 549 Old 02-26-2018, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by jodiuh View Post
Can you share this info? I have what looks like severe backlight bleed and am thinking the clouding is something different, but I'll try anything. :/
No prob! Not positive if that's the same thing (but it may be), I just had a few hints of light/bleed spots and wanted them gone. I searched for "removing clouding on screens" and came across this same remedy numerous times, figured it must be effective. The rtings site had an entire page dedicated to "black uniformity" and this handy fix for clouding...

"For clouding, there's a pretty simple fix for that - while not guaranteed - can have good results. Power on the TV and display a black image. This will allow you to see the lighter spots on the screen. Next, take a soft cloth and massage those brighter spots to improve the uniformity. You should only apply very gentle pressure, just barely touching the screen. You can also try a few different stroking patterns. If you are patient enough, this works surprisingly often, especially on edge-lit TVs."

I don't want to promise this will work for everyone but it sure as heck did the job on mine! Honestly, mine were only subtle to begin with and I'm just being nitpicky, I could've lived with them but with such an easy fix, why not try it. I did it in a totally black room with a movie paused on a black frame, revealing all the cloudy areas on the screen - I then gently pushed them outwards from the middle until they were completely gone! It may take you a good 15 min to get it all and you'll need to keep stepping back to examine how you're doing but it does work. I have zero cloudy/bleed spots, regardless of picture settings, it looks so even now! And it stays too. I guess as long as you're extremely careful next time you wipe down the screen it will stay as is. Good luck and l hope that helps...let us know! (=
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Last edited by Schils; 02-26-2018 at 09:54 AM.
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post #456 of 549 Old 02-26-2018, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schils View Post
...in a totally black room with a movie paused on a black frame, revealing all the cloudy areas on the screen - I then gently pushed them outwards from the middle until they were completely gone! It may take you a good 15 min to get it all and you'll need to keep stepping back to examine how you're doing but it does work. I have zero cloudy/bleed spots, regardless of picture settings, it looks so even now! And it stays too. I guess as long as you're extremely careful next time you wipe down the screen it will stay as is. Good luck and l hope that helps...let us know! (=
Thanks a lot Schils! I'll give it a shot tonight.

I had an 810C before this and IIRC, it was a direct lit as opposed to the edge lit 850E. It was like...maybe...2 inches thicker, if that, but had nearly zero backlight bleed or clouding problems.

It drives me crazy when companies prioritize thin over function...like this damn MacBook pro keyboard I'm attempting to type on and breaking my fingers...
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post #457 of 549 Old 03-02-2018, 01:19 PM
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hi all

what kinda of android apps are available on this tv..
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post #458 of 549 Old 03-02-2018, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jodiuh View Post
Can you share this info? I have what looks like severe backlight bleed and am thinking the clouding is something different, but I'll try anything. :/
I had a Sony 55X850C with minor clouding and rubbing the panel helped a lot.

Samsung 55KS8000 ,Samsung 55MU6300 . I priorly owned a Sony 55X850C given to family now.
Sony ES 7.1HT AVR modest 5.1 surround with Elac B6 fronts w/other impedance and sensitivity matched surrounds , center and powered sub that work well all in all for what it is.
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post #459 of 549 Old 03-02-2018, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by frank xbe View Post
I had a Sony 55X850C with minor clouding and rubbing the panel helped a lot.
I tried that on my new 850E, it didn't do a thing for some reason.
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post #460 of 549 Old 03-03-2018, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
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hi all

what kinda of android apps are available on this tv..
You can open the Google play store in the TV or use a PC and goto Google play store > apps to add compatible apps to the TV

Samsung 55KS8000 ,Samsung 55MU6300 . I priorly owned a Sony 55X850C given to family now.
Sony ES 7.1HT AVR modest 5.1 surround with Elac B6 fronts w/other impedance and sensitivity matched surrounds , center and powered sub that work well all in all for what it is.
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post #461 of 549 Old 03-06-2018, 08:27 AM
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I recently purchased a Sony XBR-75X850E and I am having trouble getting ARC to work properly.

Receiver is an Onkyo RZ820.

Main HDMI output is connected to Input 3/ARC on the X850 TV.

I've toggled ARC on/off for the receiver, upon restart, the TV and Receiver connect just fine, audio input comes from the TV and out the speakers from the receiver. Seems like it works for a day or two, and then all of a sudden I'll turn off the TV, and the Receiver remains on and goes into the Audio Return mode, where the display shows the receiver is receiving input from the TV.

At that point, audio won't work again until I toggle the Sync off/on again, but if I turn on the TV and turn it back off, the Receiver and TV both turn off as expected. Some times it seems like the receiver detects a signal, and then turns back on.

Unfortunately, I don't have another TV/Receiver to easily test. It just seems like the technology is super glitchy and I feel like I spent enough $$ to not have to deal with it.

Any ideas? Seems like all I should need to do is connect HDMI Output to TV ARC Input 3. Then ensure Receiver and TV have ARC enabled.
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post #462 of 549 Old 03-06-2018, 12:21 PM
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Try adding a TOSLINK cable between the TV and Receiver
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post #463 of 549 Old 03-07-2018, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merlin2000 View Post
I recently purchased a Sony XBR-75X850E and I am having trouble getting ARC to work properly.

Receiver is an Onkyo RZ820.

Main HDMI output is connected to Input 3/ARC on the X850 TV.

I've toggled ARC on/off for the receiver, upon restart, the TV and Receiver connect just fine, audio input comes from the TV and out the speakers from the receiver. Seems like it works for a day or two, and then all of a sudden I'll turn off the TV, and the Receiver remains on and goes into the Audio Return mode, where the display shows the receiver is receiving input from the TV.

At that point, audio won't work again until I toggle the Sync off/on again, but if I turn on the TV and turn it back off, the Receiver and TV both turn off as expected. Some times it seems like the receiver detects a signal, and then turns back on.

Unfortunately, I don't have another TV/Receiver to easily test. It just seems like the technology is super glitchy and I feel like I spent enough $$ to not have to deal with it.

Any ideas? Seems like all I should need to do is connect HDMI Output to TV ARC Input 3. Then ensure Receiver and TV have ARC enabled.
That’s a new receiver, so I would think it’d be ok. I’m using an Rx-v381 Yamaha which is more budget and lip sync, on/off, volume work flawlessly. I do have many options for hdmi and arc and did have to play with them. I’m sure you’ve given that a try, but if not, I’d try all settings. You’re probably already using the hdmi mode on your receiver for 4K signals, but that’s worth mentioning.i have the 65, but I don’t think the 75 would work any differently. Maybe a firmware update on your receiver? Or onkyos forums or the onkyo thread here?

I know it can be frustrating, so good luck! You’ll figure it out eventually..even if it means you have to get a real receiver like a Yamaha or denon. ;-)
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post #464 of 549 Old 03-07-2018, 03:06 PM
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I would go with optical instead of ARC and get a remote that controls your receiver volume. ARC is very buggy.
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post #465 of 549 Old 03-08-2018, 06:00 AM
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I would go with optical instead of ARC and get a remote that controls your receiver volume. ARC is very buggy.
That was my experience with a Polk audio magnifi mini. :/

0 complaints between the 65x850e and a Yamaha Rx-v381.

I am curious as to how a harmony would work tho...I’d want it to control the Xbox One X, not sure if it can, but that’sd Be great.
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post #466 of 549 Old 03-09-2018, 06:32 AM
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It works fine for me on my current setup but I've had issues with other systems. If it works for people, great. But enough people seem to have had problems that it's probably worth trying optical as a solution first.
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post #467 of 549 Old 03-12-2018, 09:24 AM
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When I put Windows 10 into HDR mode on this TV it looks washed out and very dim. Has anyone played with the TV settings to get windows HDR looking good?
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post #468 of 549 Old 03-13-2018, 03:39 AM
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I know we're not really supposed to discuss price but if anyone wants this TV and has a Fry's local, they have it on sale today only with their promo code for $900 for the 65".
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post #469 of 549 Old 03-15-2018, 06:43 AM
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When I put Windows 10 into HDR mode on this TV it looks washed out and very dim. Has anyone played with the TV settings to get windows HDR looking good?
There is a thread on this issue generally on the HTPC subforum. You may want to check there.
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post #470 of 549 Old 03-15-2018, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antennahead View Post
This past October I picked up a 75" 940E for the living room, moved the 65" ZT60 to the bedroom. The ZT60 has died I decided to replace it with the X850E last week, pricing was too good to pass up. Just couldn't bring myself to spend the additional bucks on the X900E for a bedroom TV. So far I'm happy with my purchase
850E is a solid set for the price........
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post #471 of 549 Old 03-15-2018, 11:53 AM
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Been playing around with the dynamic contrast setting and found medium to be a really solid fit for HDR 4K discs. It brings out details from the dark scenes and seems to deepen black levels. It looks a little funny for stuff like Friends on Netflix tho. Worth looking into...

Also, I have been able to get by with 4 backlight with this new setting so I don't burn my retinas up.
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post #472 of 549 Old 03-16-2018, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Fyodor View Post
I would go with optical instead of ARC and get a remote that controls your receiver volume. ARC is very buggy.
sad, my 46" 7year old Sony TV works fine with Sony SB (HTCT780) using ARC connection, but this 65"Sony 850E fails miserable (Sony support could help either!) Do you think Harmony 650 would work? (650 is the cheapest I could find)
Thanks
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post #473 of 549 Old 03-19-2018, 10:17 AM
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Where is the backlight setting?
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post #474 of 549 Old 03-19-2018, 12:16 PM
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Where is the backlight setting?
It's called brightness. I leave mine @ 0 for most things, 4 for HDR.

Contrast is white level...black level is obviously black level.

I like to use 100 contrast for Xbox games and a little less for movies. Then even less for shows.

Dynamic contrast is fun to play with for movies and games.
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post #475 of 549 Old 03-19-2018, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by jodiuh View Post
It's called brightness. I leave mine @ 0 for most things, 4 for HDR.

Contrast is white level...black level is obviously black level.

I like to use 100 contrast for Xbox games and a little less for movies. Then even less for shows.

Dynamic contrast is fun to play with for movies and games.
Brightness set to 4 for HDR will not be too dark and making the HDR effect less obvious ?

What is the value for your Black level ?

Dynamic contrast here refer to Adv. contrast enhancer ?
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post #476 of 549 Old 03-19-2018, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by wbchen99 View Post
Brightness set to 4 for HDR will not be too dark and making the HDR effect less obvious ?

What is the value for your Black level ?

Dynamic contrast here refer to Adv. contrast enhancer ?
Yes I don't understand leaving the brightness low for HDR content. It is meant to be maxed out so the tv is able to reach it's peak values.
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post #477 of 549 Old 03-19-2018, 11:15 PM
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Brightness set to 4 for HDR will not be too dark and making the HDR effect less obvious ?

What is the value for your Black level ?

Dynamic contrast here refer to Adv. contrast enhancer ?
Black level ~ 48 to 50

Yes, you’re right, my bad. :0 I meant Adv. contrast enhancer. Medium or High for most games and action, sci-fi, horror movies (films that have more of a dark or colorful palette) Low or off for comedies, dramas, or sitcoms. It does tend to blow up brighter areas of a frame like overhead lights or neon signs, etc, but it’s more of a different style than a problem for me. The real treat here’s what it does to darker scenes. Details come into view that previously could not be seen. Think hair or logos or folds in clothes, etc. I don’t “think” it’s actually bringing the black level down, but it sure seems like it is. It seems to mimize clouding and of course colors pop more as well. Watching the new 4K disc of Ghost in the Shell with adv contrast off and medium’s an entirely different experience.

Sometimes I’ll move the gamma +/- 1. Black adjust seems to hide details in dark areas...so sort of the reverse of Adv. contrast enhancer.

Color I go from 50 all the way up to 60 for some xbox games or colorful movies. For stuff like Friends, the sitcom from the 90’s I will usually go with 52 to keep skin tones in check. But the reason to go higher’s defintely to pop the colors, provided faces look normal. With a game like Forza 7, there’s no skin tones, so I’ll crank that.

Hue stays @ 0, color temp’s on Expert 1. Neutral might make things less yellow and warm’s a good compromise between the two. I used to go neutral for games and warm/neutral for films. But after comparing back and forth with Expert, just left it there for awhile and now when I look back...even to warm, it’s like going from incandescent to fluorescent in the same way that fluorescent lighting reduces the viewable color spectrum. The big reason to go expert’s to see more accurate colors...for me.

Adv. color temp’s where the calibration’s done. I’m no expert with this, so I just used rting’s settings even tho panels are different, their numbers look better to me than default.

Live color blooms details and bleeds into other objects even on low, so I leave that off all the time.

Clarity:
Sharpness 25 or 50 and leave it. I don’t notice much difference unless it’s cranked to 100. Even then it’s just not something that makes much of a difference. Same for the rest of the settings. I just don’t see anything, haha! So I leave it all off.

Motionflow:
True cinema for everything but games, airplay, twitch which I leave off. For sports I’ll use Smooth, but commercials look a little jarring so I typically just look down and mute.

CineMotion:
High for everything except games, airplay, twitch, and sports.

The reason I leave HDR @ 4’s because it’s an edge lit LED panel. I’ll go into more detail below.

Quote:
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Yes I don't understand leaving the brightness low for HDR content. It is meant to be maxed out so the tv is able to reach it's peak values.
Maxing out the backlight on a C7 makes sense because you can do 900 to 0 nits. Maxing out an 850E simply raises all areas of the screen to 400~450 nits depending on the screen area. It’s not a contrast thing and that’s why it won’t show up in pictures.

HDR encoded content on an edge lit panel will look too dark for a 0 backlight and defintely benefits up to 16 (for me), but anything after 4~8 kills the black level. It literally goes from black to gray if I go from 4 to 50. At max brightness I may as well be looking @ 1st gen TN.

Here’s the thermal image from rtings...

http://i.rtings.com/images/reviews/t...ture-large.jpg

You can see from that picture that there’s a single row @ the bottom lighting the entire panel. Changing the brightness setting adjusts the backlight from 0 to 50 uniformly. This breaks the HDR encode from 4K discs as big draw from an OLED or a local dimming set’s the ability to literally change the brightness of the image in different areas of the screen. Different’s the key word. So for example...

You have an image of a sun over a patio with 2 people on a bench. On an OLED with the best hardware capability’s for HDR, the sun could be 900 nits, the people could be 300, and the ground below the patio’s deck could actually be 0. So you have per pixel levels of brightness just like in real life where the sun creates intense black levels in the shade.

And edge lit panel’s hardware’s not capable of HDR in the way filmmakers intend. Sure, images may appear brighter, but if you go back and forth between HDR on or off, you’ll see that what’s actually happening’s a flattening of details from black to white.

Logan Noir’s a perfect example of this. In the scene towards the end with Logan lying in bed chatting with x-23, you can see 1/2 of his face with HDR on. By turning it off, his entire face is shown. It doesn’t “pop” like HDR on and therefore looks less impressive at first glance, but you’re losing a large amount of details.

I’m not necessarily saying HDR looks bad on the set, in fact, I do prefer it from time to time just because of the contrast boost giving a more natural life like presentation. But this can also be a problem. In the Transformers 1 2007 4K HDR film, when devaster’s chasing prime, his entire lower leg’s black. With HDR off there’s so much more detail. So it’s very much a per material basis for me.
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post #478 of 549 Old 03-20-2018, 12:19 AM
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Thanks jodiuh for your patience and explanation. Will try the settings you mentioned, hope it can balance between details and HDR effect on my set.

Initially thought brightness should be at max since it auto set to max once the tv detected HDR signal, and turn down the brightness will only make the picture dark.
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post #479 of 549 Old 03-20-2018, 02:19 AM
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Thanks jodiuh for your patience and explanation. Will try the settings you mentioned, hope it can balance between details and HDR effect on my set.

Initially thought brightness should be at max since it auto set to max once the tv detected HDR signal, and turn down the brightness will only make the picture dark.
Of course! :0

Unfortunately, I also took that "set to max" advice from most reviews and forums. Sony even defaults it to max!

If you want to do a good test, watch something with a lot of darker scenes (this is where I pimp Ghost in the Shell with ScarJo again). During the scene with her and another guy chatting in the dark, I couldn't help, but be disappointed with the TV. I started playing with settings and the two big ones were:

1. Went from 24 brightness down to 4.
2. Adv contrast enhancer to medium.

That brought the black levels down so low I pumped fists for nearly a full minute.

Good luck and have fun! Most importantly, don't trust us, trust your eyes. I could be a shill for Ghost in the Shell for all you know.
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post #480 of 549 Old 03-22-2018, 06:20 PM
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ARC Bravia Audio Settings

Hi

Just trying to establish the correct BRAVIA audio settings to ensure my AVR is receiving the proper audio signal through ARC. At the moment it seems to be only receiving a dolby pro-logic signal, not 5.1.

Cheers

Scott
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